Rim to Rim to Rim: A Grand Canyon Adventure
Even though the Grand Canyon attracts millions of visitors a year, it's possible to have it all to yourself (and maybe a few of your closest buddies). Here’s how: Do a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim backpacking trip, in the winter.
According to the server at the Cantina helping me to enjoy a steak dinner at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, less than 1% of the 6+ million visitors to the Grand Canyon make it to the Colorado River. That means the vast majority of one of the world's most spectacular places is completely empty of humans.
Epic beauty? No people? My kind of place.
The secret (it's not really a secret) is getting away from the trailheads and visitor centres. If you're capable of hiking more than a mile in the Grand Canyon, you too can have it to yourself.
Take this to the extreme and complete a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim backpacking trip, as I did a few years ago, and you can be amongst a handful of people for literally miles around.
Completing a Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim backpacking trip is an accomplishment worth a notch in the belt. It had been a bucket-list item for me, as it is a significant undertaking. But the rewards are remarkable. Stellar views accompany you for each of the 46 miles of trail.
It can be done any time of year. But the best time is in the winter when it’s not absurdly hot and competition for camping permits is lowest. As a bonus, you’ll have the North Rim of the Grand Canyon literally all to yourself.
Winter Camping In Grand Canyon
The cold months add an additional element of beauty to an already incredible landscape. The altitude at each rim is deceptively high. The South Rim is at 7,000 feet; the North Rim, over 8,000 feet. At such an elevation, the North Rim is a certifiable winter wonderland November through March.
Not sold on winter camping? Check out my Ode to Winter Camping. It'll help light the fire, so to speak.
Roads and lodges at the North Rim close from October 31 – May 15. During this time the only access is by snowmobile or cross-country skis from Jacob Lake, which is 50 miles away, or by hiking 24 miles from the South Rim, which is what I did.
I joined a group of photographers in the heart of winter to do the round-trip adventure. A recent storm had dropped a significant amount of snow, covering the upper portions of the trail.
The descent was tricky, but as we got below the ice, the temperatures were perfect for hiking. Having hiked the Grand Canyon in the summer, I know it is infinitely more enjoyable with the cool temperatures of winter.
Things really got interesting at the North Rim. As we ascended the last few miles of trail, the snow continued to get deeper and deeper. The last two miles of trail required significant effort, regularly post-holing into knee-deep snow.
Very few people hike this stretch in winter, so we were essentially breaking trail.
The North Rim was beautiful, cold, and covered with snow. Our group had access access to a yurt, outfitted with a wood-burning stove. It was quite the luxury. But unfortunately, the yurt has since been decommissioned and is no longer an option.
Camping at the North Rim is currently the only viable option, meaning you'll have be even more hearty to make this happen. But with the right gear, it'll be well worth it.
During our day of rest at the North Rim, we chopped wood, had a fire, ate a bunch of food, drank beers that one of our crew took great effort to haul in, and we hiked to the rim for a spectacular sunset.
No one had been to the rim since the last snowstorm. Aside from some animal prints, the snow on the canyon made as pristine a view as you could ask for. Being the only group at the North Rim was one of the most remarkable and memorable moments of the trip, something very few people get to enjoy.
Want to do this yourself? Here’s how:
Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim: Winter Trip
Get A Permit: Contact the Backcountry Permit Office (928-638-7875,
www.nps.gov) about reserving a space at the campgrounds within the park. Each of the campgrounds requires a permit. Phantom Ranch is a popular destination year-round and spots fill up fast, so book in advance. If no Phantom Ranch permits are available, Cottonwood Campground (in the middle of the North Kiabab Trail) likely will have availability.
Plan Your Trip: The fastest known Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim trip was completed in less than six hours by ultra-runner Jim Walmsley. But if you’re a regular human, give yourself multiple days to make this happen. Five days allows for a rest day along the way and will afford you an opportunity to really enjoy yourself. The miles are strenuous, especially when there is snow and ice on the trail (and PSA: there always is during the winter).
The NPS has some additional information for winter camping and hiking in the Grand Canyon.
Prepare For Winter: Because of the limited access, very few people visit the North Rim in the winter. You’ve got to be committed to getting there. The last few miles of trail at the North Rim are often covered with several feet of snow.
Gear Up: Hikers should be prepared for potentially deep snow. While snowshoes would be helpful at the North Rim, carrying them for 40+ miles might not be worth it. Instead, slow, strenuous post-holing at the North Rim is likely. Micro spikes are extremely helpful and are essentially a requirement for the icy sections. Trekking poles are, in my opinion, a Grand Canyon hiking essential any time of year. But with snow and ice, poles become even more necessary.
Day By Day: Trip Itinerary
Day 1) Descend the South Kiabab Trail (it’s steeper, but fewer miles than the South Bright Angel Trail) to Phantom Ranch; seven miles. Continue seven more relatively flat miles (for the Grand Canyon that is) to Cottonwood Campground, where campsites are much more easy to reserve.
Day 2) Ascend from Cottonwood Campground seven miles to the North Rim trailhead. The campground is roughly another mile
Day 3) From camp, hike one more mile to the North Rim lodge (closed for winter) to enjoy spectacular views of the snow-covered Grand Canyon. Return to the camp. Chill. High five your buddies.
Day 4) Descend North Kaibab trail fourteen miles to Phantom Ranch. Get a beer, eat a steak dinner, and ice cream at the Cantina.
Day 5) Ascend the South Bright Angel Trail ten miles to the South Rim. Make sure you’ve got some beers in your car to celebrate your accomplishment. High five your buddies.
Have you done a Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim trip yourself? I'd love to hear about it in the comments!
Cheers my friends. Now go get after it!