Hike the Tour du Mont Blanc without Money or Plans

The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is one of the most popular and epic treks on the planet. Each year, tens of thousands of hikers tackle this 170-kilometer (105-mile) circuit around the titular summit – passing through parts of France, Switzerland, and Italy in the process. I hiked the full circuit last year, but unlike most of my peers, I arrived in Chamonix, France without a plan, or even much of a budget. Nonetheless, I had a fantastic and successful journey. So if you're craving an adventure in the Alps this summer but don't have an existing blueprint to make it happen, I'm here to act as bearer of good news: you can do it last-minute, and without breaking the bank. Here's how. 

Apps & Maps:

One of the first things I recommend, not just for the TMB but for all novel hikes, is getting an app and/or map for the route. I did well with FarOut Guides. On top of directions and terrain profiles, this map system showed me all of the lodging, campgrounds, restaurants, and water stops along the way. And best of all, it's a community-driven app, which means it's incredibly up-to-date thanks to real people sharing their real-world experiences. 

Pro Tip: Download the maps ahead of time so that you can save your phone battery by working offline. 

Where Does the TMB Start? 

Given that the Tour du Mont Blanc is a looped trail, it can theoretically be started from anywhere. With that said, Les Houches, France is the official push-off point. This well-signed trailhead (it's actually a wooden arch over a sidewalk) sits just outside of the resort community of Chamonix, France, which itself can be reached fairly quickly and easily from the Geneva Airport via train, bus, or car. 

Accommodations: 

The most common way to hike the TMB is by booking accommodations in advance (i.e. hotels, chalets, and/or refuges), or paying top-dollar to join a licensed tour agency that will handle all the logistics. But there is another way. I actually did not spend a single cent on luxury accommodations. Rather, I brought my own tent, and simply shelled out for a few campsites along the way. You can wild-camp in some areas, but regulations vary slightly from country to country. Given the ever-increasing traffic on the trail – much of which passes through private lands – pitching a tent in any old spot is no longer encouraged. However, if you tactfully approach the owner of a farmhouse or mountain refuge and ask for permission, then you may be able to do so on a case by case basis. 

My favorite free campsite of the entire tour was at ​​Lacs des Chéserys. If you aim to follow in my footsteps just know that you can't set up until after 7pm and you have to be out by 9am the following morning. Also, please be sure to observe those Leave No Trace principles so that the French government doesn't crack down on future campers. 

Food Planning:

One of the beauties of the TMB (other than its jaw-dropping landscape) is that it is a social affair. Unlike full-blown backcountry adventures, you do not have to carry days worth of food. Instead, you can set forth with modest supplies, and know that you will inevitably pass through some cute little town with a perfectly-passable grocery store. I made a habit of restocking on bread, cheese, sausage, and lots of other tasty local snacks whenever the trail gave me the chance. And of course, there are endless cafes and fine-dining options to service those with a lenient budget. Personally, I treaded the middle path (i.e. mostly groceries, but some indulgent treats here and there). After all, nothing beats an artisanal pizza or wine/cheesecake combo in their countries of origin – especially after scaling a steep mountain pass. 

As for water, there are free-flowing water taps all over the place. Most of them say that they are purified, and so plenty of people fill their bottles as they please. However, after getting a bit sick from one contaminated source, I would suggest bringing an additional water purifier or filter. If you are equipped with the latter, then keep in mind that there are also tons of glacial streams and falls from which to re-up. The longest stretch that I encountered without a water stop was about 6 miles (10km). So definitely plan to carry a few hours worth of water on you, but generally speaking, you will not go hungry or thirsty on this trail. 

Trail Profile

There are some serious ups and downs on the Tour du Mont Blanc. In fact, there are almost no flat sections. So even though you can do this trail last-minute from a logistical standpoint, I would not approach it without good baseline fitness, or better yet, months of specific training. Since I hike for a living, I was able to splice the TMB into my schedule, but if you've been a bit of a couch-potato lately, then consider yourself warned. 

Note: I averaged 17.5 miles/day for 6 days but it's more common to do it in 8–10 days. 

One of the things that surprised me about the TMB was that roughly 60% of it was on roads or paved/gravel paths. Many of the single track trails are connected via modern towns and farming networks. I'm not saying this is a bad thing – for the pastoral scenes compliment the mountainscapes and the towns inject welcomed culture into the mix – but it is definitely something to keep in mind before setting forth. 

Pro Tip: Consider choosing comfortable hiking shoes over chunky boots that won't work as well on the concrete sections. 

When to Hike the TMB?

Shoulder-season is when us last-minuters should aim to hike the TMB. Mid-June through to August is peak season, and what a peak it is! The trail gets absolutely slammed with people, which means most accommodations (including the cheap campsites), and even restaurants will be booked up. I opted for September, and was greeted with more spacious surroundings and unexpectedly warm conditions. But snow can come into play in the early fall, and it certainly won't have melted by spring, so be prepared for anything on those high mountain passes. 

A Quick Note on Trail Etiquette/Culture:

While the TMB passes through three countries, the language of the trail tends to be French. Therefore, a friendly bonjour! goes a long way to keep good vibes flowing between fellow hikers and the various stewards of the land. 

The Budget:

Since everyone travels to the TMB from different points of origin, I'll highlight my trail expenses and let you fill in the pertinent details from there. All in, I spent about $200 (USD) to hike the entire circuit. This mostly included campsites ($15–25/night, or free), groceries, and copious amounts of coffee at trailside cafes. Compare that to the $3,000–5,000 price tag that most people spend, and I think I did pretty darn well. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that people have done it for even cheaper, and I also expect that many of you will want to find a middle ground sweet-spot, where the occasional roof/hot shower and authentic sit-down meal is splurged on. 

However you choose to trek the Tour du Mont Blanc, I know that you'll have the experience of a lifetime. I'm grateful to have taken the plunge, even though it was on a whim and a tight budget. The people, the places, and the omnipresent snow-capped centerpiece will forever be etched in my bones.

Bon Voyage!