DO IT: Backpacking West Fork of Oak Creek Canyon

Everyone knows I have a love affair with the canyons of the Southwest. To me, they are the most special places on earth. But you don’t have to go to Utah to find great canyons. There are gems all across my home state that don’t get the same attention as, say, a Zion National Park.

Most Arizonans know about the West Fork of Oak Creek Canyon, a slice of Zion hiding in plain sight along the drive between Sedona and Flagstaff. The canyon is wildly popular with locals and tourists in the summer and fall, but most people only frequent the trail that covers the canyon’s lower 3 miles. However, there’s way more to explore than the easy section by the trailhead.

But the only way to see it is to leave the crowds behind, hoist your pack, and take a backpacking trip.

Lower section of West Fork

photo by Graham Merwin

Living so close to theWest Fork, I’ve known about this gem for a while. But I had never fully explored its wonders. So I decided to shoulder my pack and check it out for myself. And I had definitely been missing out!

West Fork is no ordinary walk in the desert. The canyon boasts the soaring red, orange, and gold-colored walls you’d expect to find in Utah and throws in a green oasis of plentiful shade and flowing water in the bottom, the kind you wouldn’t expect in Arizona.

Here in the bottom of this canyon I found all the things I love about a good canyon hike, including a sense of smallness and absolute solitude.

Feeling up for an adventure?Here’s how to make it happen:

The number of pools, their depth, and their length can vary a lot based on the season and recent precipitation, but getting wet is guaranteed. At minimum you will have to wade up to your chest through some of the pools, pack overhead.

West Fork is a challenging mission. The canyon is approximately 14 miles long. It’s a slow and strenuous hike, but it’s simply drop-dead-gorgeous.  Because of the ruggedness and wetness, you’ll need to prepare differently than you would for most other backpacking trips. Outside of the first three miles, there is no trail. The rest of the canyon is a classic canyon hike, you simply follow the streambed. Which means you’ll be bushwhacking, rock-hopping, wading, and sometimes full-on swimming!

Logistics

There are a few ways to hike West Fork: bottom-up, top-down, or as an out-and-back from either end. A thru-hike typically takes 2 days, while an out-and-back that covers the whole canyon should take 3-4 days.

The “bottom” is what’s commonly referred to as West Fork Trailhead, and has the popular 3-mile trail. The trailhead is located at the Call of the Canyon Picnic Site along Highway 89A in Oak Creek Canyon. This “bottom” section is where you’ll find significant crowds of people.

For those with an affinity for adventure, I recommend going from the top down. The “top” is seldom visited. There’s not much of a trailhead. It’s simply a spot where Forest Road 231 (Woody Mountain Road) crosses an arm of West Fork Canyon.

To get there, clock 18 miles from the start of FR 231, going south from Flagstaff off Route66 west of town. Look for the only bridge. There’s a small sign that says West Fork. Park here and descend into the canyon.

You’ll have to plan a vehicle shuttle.

Gear

When hiking West Fork, you need ways to keep your gear dry and yourself warm. The number of pools, their depth and length, can vary a lot based on the season and recent precipitation, but getting wet is guaranteed. At minimum you will have to wade up to your chest through some of the pools, pack overhead. And you will probably have to swim at least once. And even though it’s Arizona and the temps reach 100 degrees in the summer, the water is cold! The canyon is deep and the water doesn’t see much sunlight, so it stays chilly year round.

I recommend using at least one lightweight, roll-top dry bag inside your backpack to protect your essential items. For something like this, I’ll use one dry bag for clothing and one just for my sleeping bag, as that baby better stay dry! As for your body, just submit to being wet. Wear quick-drying clothes that won’t keep you damp and cold for long, and wear sturdy hiking shoes that you can tolerate when they are soaked. I prefer trail runners because they are lightweight and drain water quickly. Sandals might sound tempting, but remember that only a portion of the hike is in the water. The rest is over rocks, through brush, and is just too gnarly for sandals. With all the bushwhacking and even poison ivy, a pair of pants is a good idea.

As with any backpacking trip, you must pack out all your trash. Packing out your poop isn’t technically required, but it is best practice for Leave No Trace. For any canyon hike like this, I recommend bringing a “wag bag” for your poop.

Permits and Camping

No permits are needed, but there are some regulations to be aware of. The lower trailhead is a fee area and overnight parking is not allowed. It’s currently possible to find a small pullout along the road to leave your car, then walk into the day use area to start the trail. But regulations are changing and many of the “parking options” are being removed because of overcrowding. And even in the old days, these parking options are competitive. I recommend planning a vehicle shuttle and have someone pick you up at the Call of the Canyon trailhead.

If you don’t want to deal with the logistics or leave your car next to the highway, a good alternative is to hike an out-and-back from the upper trailhead instead, where your car will stay beside a much quieter forest road.

Campfires are not allowed anywhere in the canyon. You may see fire rings that people have built, but you should resist the urge to use them. Camping in the lower 6 miles of the canyon is prohibited. Please find a camp spot that has clearly been used before in order to minimize your impact. There are some lovely spots tucked away in the trees. Just be on the lookout!

For more information contact the Red Rock Ranger District - Tel. 928-282-4119 

Even though the entire canyon is beautiful, it’s worth noting that the lower half of the canyon has some of the best views. As you drop lower into the sandstone the canyon becomes truly spectacular. And the top end is by far the wettest and coldest section. But enduring the cold water will definitely have a payoff.

Backpacking the WestFork is no easy endeavor. The wet and rocky hiking is strenuous that’s tough on the knees and ankles, but it’s the only way to experience this concealed canyon wilderness.

And that’s what makes it a proper adventure!